We also checked out . . .

Victoria House, Ambergris Caye: This property enjoys a lush, beautifully manicured setting on the quiet south end of the island, about a 15-minute walk from San Pedro. Thirty accommodations range in mood and design, from family-style villas to romantic casitas with peaked palapa roofs and mosquito netting. Some necessary refurbs and upgrades are scheduled for 2000, including a beachfront pool. One thing that doesn't need improving: the open-air restaurant's cuisine, the best I had in Belize. Rates for a one-bedroom villa start at $315/day (2000).

Journey's End, Ambergris Caye (northern end): Water-lovers will appreciate the complimentary toys-Hobie cats, kayaks, canoes, sailboats, windsurfers, and more-and the resort's signature fly-fishing guide program. Thirty coral- and green-trimmed cabanas are spacious and tropical in feel; baths need some upgrading. The pool area has a swim-up bar; the dining area, a waterfront deck. A plus: the private, 1,000-foot beach, a feature not easy to come by in Belize. Rates start at $160/day (2000).

Captain Morgan's Retreat, Ambergris Caye (near Journey's End): This former Great Escape still offers attractive, one-bedroom beachfront villas; however, we can no longer recommend their cabanas, which were in need of some serious TLC. Villa rates start at $150/day (2000) per person.

Caribbean Villas, Ambergris Caye (just south of San Pedro): We still like the wonderfully secluded setting of this former Great Escape, but the property itself was looking worn and didn't offer as much as newer properties on Ambergris Caye. Rates start at $150/day (2000) for a one-bedroom suite.

Fall 2000