The Hidden, Boutique Side of Jamaica
The Tryall Club, Jamaica
By Hideaways Travel Services Manager Darcy Allen
The world held a wealth of travel possibilities for us when I asked my husband, Bruce, where he wanted to go for our tenth wedding-anniversary trip. So I was a little surprised when he said Jamaica, a place I'd already been a couple of times in searching out resorts to recommend to our members. However, there was a hidden agenda to his suggestion. Bruce, who is an avid reader of Ian Fleming, said, "You know, I've always wanted to go to GoldenEye resort and see where Ian Fleming wrote his James Bond novels." So Jamaica it was!
In my previous Jamaican travels I'd stayed at fairly large all-inclusive resorts, which are quickly becoming the "norm" for vacationers visiting the island. This type of stay is great for those looking to stay put and relax, enjoy all the bells and whistles of a large resort, and have all their meals, beverages, and activities included up front. But Bruce and I wanted to experience classic Jamaica by staying at a couple of boutique hotels away from the masses, and GoldenEye, our first stop, perfectly fit the bill.
Goldeneye
For Your Eyes Only
Named after a secret WWII mission that Fleming was involved in, GoldenEye has long been known as an intimate hideaway for the rich and famous looking for privacy and a degree of anonymity. It's upscale but not over the top--think rustic-chic vs. modern luxury. Plus, it's located a good two-and-a-half-hour drive from Montego Bay, on the north coast of Jamaica in Oracabessa Bay. You could drive right past the stone gated entrance unless your driver knew where he or she were going, as there is absolutely zero signage out front. This is on purpose, of course, so you can vacation without those pesky paparazzi following you everywhere.
The original villa on the estate, built in the late 1940s, was indeed Ian Fleming's three-bedroom home with its own private pool and beach area. It's in one of these bedrooms that Fleming wrote all 13 Bond novels, including three books--Dr. No, Live and Let Die, and The Man with the Golden Gun--that are set in Jamaica.
Two additional one-bedroom cottages have been added nearby to make a five-bedroom enclave complete with a garage converted to a game room. Fully staffed, this makes for an ideal private retreat for a small wedding party or family group traveling together (rates start from $5,000 per night). The main house is filled with photos and treasures from Ian Fleming's time--an added bonus!
GoldenEye was purchased by music mogul Chris Blackwell, founder of Island Records, in 1976 (Fleming died in '64), and eventually was expanded into the GoldenEye resort of today. With a handful of lagoon-facing cottages and direct beachfront villas, the property has always been ideal for extended families and several friends or couples looking to get away together for a relaxing holiday. The larger one- and two-bedroom villas have a covered porch for lounging, a full kitchen, private outdoor showers, and air-conditioning--everything you need to unwind, unplug, and maybe even write that next bestselling novel.
Easy, Breezy Living
In April 2016, GoldenEye unveiled its new Beach Hut section, where we stayed. About 20 colorful, stand-alone huts are built on stilts in rows staggered back from the sea. This area of the resort has its own small cove beach, a toes-in-the-sand bar, and water-sports access.
What I found a bit misleading from the name is that the Beach Huts aren't actually directly beachfront. The majority are clumped together one or two rows back and offer limited sea views. What makes these huts desirable, though, is that most are built for two guests and are more moderately priced (from $450 per night)--so now GoldenEye isn't just for large parties, special celebrations, or the rich and famous.
Aesthetically, the huts are beautiful--think rich, dark mahogany woods, louvered windows (no screens), ceiling fans, and romantic mosquito netting draped over the queen-sized bed. Top it off with a private patio and outdoor rain shower, and you'll see that the Beach Huts are designed to offer a natural feel and total escape. Each is assigned a cell phone at check in, which we could use to reach the main lounge or restaurant for assistance. I found it funny that, while there are no landlines, clocks, or air-conditioning in the Beach Huts, each does have a flat-screen TV. We didn't turn the TV on once in the three days we were there, but we did make use of the complimentary WI-FI available throughout the property.
Goldeneye
While the Beach Huts are near a small pool and a clubhouse with a bar and game room, the main treehouse-style restaurant, Gazebo, is up farther by the lobby, and Bizot Bar is in the middle of the property near the main pools and beach access. So if you stay in the Beach Huts as we did, be prepared for a lot of walking back and forth. We didn't mind during the day, but at night after dinner the walkways were quite dark, and we had to use the flashlights on our cell phones to navigate the rocky pathways back to our hut. Granted, this may not bother other, more sure-footed travelers as much as it did me!
Noise alert: On the other side of the Beach Huts is a dock and bar not affiliated with the hotel. We certainly weren't bothered by people wandering over to the resort, but boats were coming and going constantly and loud music played most of the day--not super relaxing if you plan to hang out in your hut and are hoping for total peace and quiet. Thankfully, we found many hidden nooks in the heart of the resort where we could sit and relax with a good book or soak in the sunshine.
Though not a traditional all-inclusive resort, GoldenEye does offer meal plans, from breakfast only up to the full meal/beverage package. I do recommend purchasing some sort of plan unless you have a rental car and are prepared to explore dining options on your own. The nearest town, Ocho Rios, is about 20 minutes away--not just down the street.
Meals are at one of two restaurants--the Gazebo, which serves international cuisine, and Bizot Bar, a more Caribbean-inspired eatery with traditional Jamaican dishes plus theme nights, like sushi on Fridays and Jamaican jerk BBQ on Saturdays. Meals are expensive, so if you don't have a meal plan, you can easily factor in $60+ for breakfast and lunch and $150+ for dinner (for 2 adults). We ate most of our meals on property, and the food was always top-notch. Service was a bit slow, but the staff was so warm and welcoming--a trademark of the Jamaican people--that it made up for it. It's a good reminder that you're here to relax, so slow down and enjoy that vodka martini (shaken, not stirred).
Beyond GoldenEye
Bruce and I rounded out our anniversary trip with a short stay at the classic Jamaica Inn, located in Ocho Rios. It was the perfect escape for wrapping up our romantic getaway.
Jamaica Inn
Built in the 1950s, the Inn is an elegant, country-club-casual boutique hotel with just 52 rooms and cottages. It harkens back to an era when you dressed for dinner, enjoyed afternoon tea, and sipped cocktails before supper. It was a favorite haunt of Sir Winston Churchill and Ian Fleming. In fact, it's believed that the phrase "shaken, not stirred" came about while the two were enjoying drinks at Jamaica Inn's beach bar. Its legendary bartender, Teddy, has been at the resort for the past 60 years and has some amazing stories to tell if you're fortunate enough to be there when he's working. Other famous patrons have included Marilyn Monroe and playwright Arthur Miller, who honeymooned at Jamaica Inn in 1957. The library and lounge are filled with amazing photos of famous guests. Even after all these years, the resort remains largely unchanged. Why mess with perfection?
This all-suite hotel offers spacious accommodations with the perfect blend of British Colonial and Caribbean-inspired décor. The bedrooms are comfortably outfitted with breezy white linens, louvered jalousie windows, and historic art prints that bring to life the Jamaica of old. The real draw for every single suite is its view. No matter which suite you are in, you'll be treated to stunning ocean panoramas from expansive terraces. Some suites have direct beach access, while the bluff-top cottages offer direct water access by way of a ladder into the sea.
We were fortunate enough to stay in Cottage 3, which is simply exquisite. At a spacious 1,100 square feet, this retreat features a wrap-around veranda with an infinity plunge pool and an outdoor shower. We were among the lucky ones to have our own private access via ladder to the turquoise sea. I'll note here that Jamaica Inn also requires a fair amount of walking, including steps and stairs with no elevators, so it's not the best choice for those who have significant mobility issues.
As a traditional boutique hotel, rates are typically room only, but meal plans for its one restaurant are available. The most common is the breakfast-plus-dinner package, which is what we did. It's ideal because the town of Ocho Rios is very close, so venturing into town is easy if you want to eat off-site while exploring during the day. We also felt thoroughly pampered by ordering breakfast in every morning. It doesn't get much better than starting your day with pastries and a fresh cup of Jamaican coffee while enjoying the sunshine, sea breezes, and birdsongs from your own private terrace. The balconies and terraces are so big that if you'd like to stay in for dinner, the staff will set up white-linen service with candles under the stars and serve your meal course by course.
The Spa at Jamaica Inn
Because Jamaica Inn was built in the '50s, well before the advent of the vast majority of hotels in this area, its location benefits from a wide, cove-like sandy beach. It's quiet and peaceful, with an ample number of loungers and palapas. We also found a small on-site spa with individual treatment huts. Imagine having a couple's massage while enjoying the spectacular ocean views and sounds of the sea!
When so many resorts in Jamaica are busily adding more restaurants and bars, bigger pools, and even rock-climbing walls, Jamaica Inn is maintaining a sense of charm, elegance, and tradition that is so rare these days. Because of this, some guests have been coming here for their holidays every year for the past three decades. In fact, one night while we enjoyed dinner under the stars at the Terrace restaurant, a local band was playing soothing, jazzy music, and a couple in their 80s got up to dance. Honestly, it was the sweetest thing.
As I looked around at the other tables in the restaurant, I saw the same contented smile again and again on the faces of guests of every age, from young Millennials on their honeymoon to older executives looking to unplug and recharge. It's that rich tradition and elegance that draws people back to Jamaica Inn. This is a resort where the staff truly cares for you, and where you'll make friends and want to come back year after year. I know Bruce and I certainly would like to!
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