Un-Expected Encounters with Un-Cruise Adventures
By Hideaways President Mike Thiel
Un-Cruise Adventures
Why, you might ask, would anyone brand a seaborne vacation an "Un-Cruise?"
Well, consider most people's perceptions of what a cruise is all about: old folks playing shuffleboard, endless buffets, gaudy entertainment, and dealing
with crowds. Mega cruise lines have even made the ship its own destination, a massive resort hotel at sea with a carnival atmosphere of waterslides,
wave-surfing pools, shopping arcades, casinos, Las Vegas entertainment, and cavernous dining venues. Is there a shore component? Sure, shared with
thousands of fellow passengers, and maybe including a visit to the cruise line's own artificial island.
There's nothing artificial about Un-Cruise Adventures, certainly not a lot of contrived, man-made entertainment. And its ships definitely aren't glitzy.
This style of cruising is meant for the person who is primarily interested in the natural aspects of a destination--its wildlife, geology, culture, and
history--and enjoying all this amid the camaraderie of a small group of like-minded folks.
You'd be surprised at the variety of people this sort of cruise attracts. I was! This spring, I joined the Safari Endeavor, the line's largest
ship (still only 84 passengers), in San José del Cabo for a one-week expedition on the Sea of Cortés. If Mexico isn't your thing, Un-Cruise also
explores Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Hawaii, the Galapagos Islands, and Central America.
Coincidentally, this cruise was designated as a "Family Adventure," and my fellow passengers, just 50-some guests on this particular sailing, ranged from 8
to almost 80, with the majority being couples in their mid-30s to early 40s, considerably younger than the average cruiser. Geographically, they hailed
from Canada and both coasts of the U.S. to as far as New Zealand, India, and Singapore. About a dozen kids were aboard ranging from 8-18, accompanied by
both parents, as part of a multi-generational family group, or with their single parent as a bonding experience.
Did I say single? Yes, I traveled alone this time, and I wasn't the only "single" aboard. This sort of excursion is great for outdoorsy singles because
they certainly won't feel left out or lonely. It doesn't take long for everyone to become one big family, especially when you're thrown together for all
sorts of daytime activities, and there is always an empty chair in the dining room and a "welcome to it" from fellow explorers.
I got to know most of my fellow travelers in the week I was aboard, including a number of the kids and most of the crew. Un-Cruise does something
unique--at least, it was to me--that encourages a one-big-family atmosphere. As passengers board on Saturday afternoon, a crewmember takes a photo of each
party on the gangway. No, not to sell to you later at some inflated price. Rather, they merge these photos with crew shots to create a "facebook" (note the
lowercase "f") that is left at the bar for reference, in case you forget the names of the folks you enjoyed breakfast with the day before. I can't tell you
how immensely helpful that was, given my poor memory for names!
At cocktail time on the first evening aboard, Jeremy, the "Head Guide"--equivalent to the social director on standard cruises--played MC and introduced the
other guides and key crew members. Each gave their own short and entertaining spiel about their background and experience. Here was my first tip-off to
what a fun-loving and talented young group runs things aboard. That fun was followed by the usual required safety drill and muster. Un-Cruise puts a lot of
emphasis on safety, which probably is a good thing since they are cruising remote areas without a doctor or extensive medical facilities aboard.
Nature on Steroids
The next six days were like living out an episode of Ocean Mysteries with Jeff Corwin merged with Jack Hanna's Wild Countdown, two of my
favorite shows to watch over Saturday-morning breakfast. To comprehend what I mean, it helps to know something about Baja and the Sea of Cortés. This
peninsula, the second-longest in the world after the Malay Peninsula, was created some five million years ago when it was ripped from mainland Mexico by
volcanic activity and earthquakes along a major fault line, which further north is known as the San Andreas Fault. It is still geologically active and said
to be further separating from the mainland by some three inches per year. Stick around for a million years or so, and Baja will be the island that Spanish
explorers in the mid-1500s thought it was.
The Sea of Cortés (also known as the Gulf of California) is extremely deep, dotted with some 900 volcanic islands, and with chasms descending up to
two miles in spots and underwater mountains rising almost to sea level. The sun beats on it pretty mercilessly, encouraging the growth of phytoplankton,
and big Pacific tides churn in twice daily with a washing-machine effect and distribute those nutrients. In short, the Sea of Cortés is a nearly
perfect ecosystem for fish and marine mammals, and the bird life that follows them. It's home to sea turtles, sea lions, dolphins, manta rays, whale
sharks, and sperm whales. It's also on the migratory route for other whale species including humpbacks, orcas, and the largest, blue whales. Beyond that,
the sea is alive with other fish, especially large pelagic like tuna, marlin, and dorado, making it a popular sport-fishing destination.
The sea's many islands are ideal rookeries for a vast variety of seabirds. We saw brown and blue-footed boobies, various tern and gull species, and tons of
brown pelicans. Ashore, there was gorgeous scenery and more life than you might imagine, in spite of little rain and desert conditions. The effect of the
umber to pale-yellow serrated mountain ridges along the coast sinking into a cobalt-blue sea is truly dramatic, especially at sunrise and sunset. In fact,
the area is so special that much of the Sea of Cortés has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Days at Sea
Un-Cruise itineraries, wherever they sail, are somewhat flexible based on the weather and where they expect to find adventure. In our case, the plan was to
cruise from San José del Cabo along the western shores of the Sea of Cortés as far as Loreto, with a stop at La Paz--the capital of Baja
California Sur--and then return to San José. Along the way, we overnighted in tranquil bays or cruised between destinations. This made for a perfect
blend of experiencing raw nature around secluded coves and deserted beaches with cultural (and shopping) excursions into civilization.
Both La Paz and Loreto are culturally significant as the settings for some of the first Spanish missions established back in the 16th century.
Both are quite charming, with broad tree-lined malecóns (seaside esplanades) which are favorite gathering places for locals. In both
towns, we took guided walking tours to check out churches, art galleries, and, in the case of La Paz, an excellent whale museum.
On the nature side, our stops at different islands were filled with active explorations, either on land or on and under the water. We could choose
snorkeling, kayaking, paddle boarding, or guided hiking, or mix and match activities, time permitting. Un-Cruise's ships are loaded with all the water toys
for these activities. If you're not adept at an activity, their guides will teach you.
For a very unique activity, we were met at one stop by a ranchero family with mule and horse mounts for a ride through the scrubby, cactus-filled hills,
along a pebbly beach, and by a lush and shady estuary. At another stop, we visited a noisy sea lion rookery, plunging over the sides of our Zodiacs to
snorkel with the curious and playful pups who swam out to greet us.
The snorkeling, which is a mainstay of exploring the Sea of Cortés, is much different from snorkeling in the Caribbean. For starters, the water is
significantly cooler, about the temperature of Cape Cod water in mid-summer--70ish. In fact, if you're going to be in the water for more than 15 minutes,
you definitely need a wet suit or shorty, which the crew supplies. The water is not as clear as in most parts of the Caribbean, either--remember all that
phytoplankton! I also didn't find the variety of coral and bright colors the Caribbean has. That said, there are lots of fish, sea urchins, and unusual
starfish, all of them interesting.
The absolute highlight of my trip was snorkeling with whale sharks. These behemoths of the sea, the world's largest fish weighing up to 15 tons , frequent the Bahia de La Paz to chow down on plankton and krill. Early in the morning, we boarded a local guide boat for the quick
run down to an open bay, where we searched for signs of feeding whale sharks. It didn't take long to find them. For the next hour or so, we snorkeled while
surrounded by these gentle giants ghosting through the somewhat murky waters and swimming around the surface, all the while sucking in voluminous amounts
of nutrient-rich waters.
I literally got within inches of several of these 25- to 30-foot-long sharks. At one point, I thought the shark coming straight at me might inhale me into
its two-foot-wide gaping mouth! Luckily, whale sharks have no teeth, but I swear they have lousy eyesight, because I was almost run down by a couple of
them. What a thrill--and I have the video to prove it!
Several other high points of the trip come to mind: a long beachcombing walk along deserted sands and exploring the stony-silent, dune-flanked desert
ravines leading inland from it; an evening beach party complete with bonfire, s'mores, a fire dance by one of the crew, and a ukulele serenade by a crew
member with a lovely voice; being hypnotized by the night sky full of stars; and quiet times reading on the deck as we cruised the Sea of Cortés while
on the lookout for whales, dolphins, and flying rays.
Beyond our nature experiences, the most impressive part of the trip was the Safari Endeavor's crew. Whether on a snorkeling excursion, dining, or
ordering up for some new concoction at the bar, everyone was well taken care of by the ship's affable and knowledgeable crewmembers.
If you love nature, Un-Cruise Adventures sure knows how to show you a good time and certainly lives up to its tagline: Unrushed, Uncrowded, Unbelievable!
As for exploring the Sea of Cortés, if you're a nature and wildlife buff and this is not on your life list, it should be.
More Un-Cruise Insight & Tips
BEFORE YOUR CRUISE
It is possible to make it to Los Cabos from most places in the U.S. for Un-Cruise Adventures' 4 p.m. departure on the same day (Saturdays). However, if
weather or other potential delays are a concern, it's best to arrive the day before.
Passengers are met at Los Cabos International Airport and driven to the resort area of San Jose del Cabo, where Un-Cruise has arranged for a meeting room
at the all-inclusive Barcelo Grand Faro Los Cabos. Passengers have the run of the resort's facilities, including restaurants, bars, and
the swimming pool, if you can find a place to change.
Un-Cruise offers pre- and post-cruise stays at the Barcelo--however, from my experience there and after speaking with several fellow passengers, I've
concluded it's a pretty undistinguished hotel with a crowded setting and very average architecture, landscaping, food, and drink. The service, on the other
hand, seemed quite good.
My preference would be to stay at Secrets Puerto Los Cabos Golf & Spa Resort, a quite upscale all-inclusive just north of the port of
San Jose del Cabo. It is big--about 200 rooms--but quite elegant and in a tranquil setting, surrounded by a golf course and on a nice beach. The service
also was excellent, and I had one of the best meals of my trip at their very atmospheric Oceana restaurant. Just two problems: 1) the minimum age to stay
here is 18, and; 2) you would have to arrange for your own taxi to get to the ship.
ABOARD THE M/S SAFARI ENDEAVOR
The m/s Safari Endeavor is a small ship, about 250 feet long and weighing in at well under 5,000 gross tons (compared to some of the other small
ships we recommend that range from about 7,000-40,000 gross tons). It accommodates about 80 passengers; when I was aboard, there only were about 50 guests
total.
The ship is well suited for exploration cruising, as it has a very small draught, is maneuverable, and can get into some pretty tight coves. It carries a
couple of large pontoon craft and several zodiacs for taking passengers out snorkeling, on beach explorations, etc. Moving passengers between ship and
shore or snorkeling is handled very efficiently. The ship also has a unique launching system for kayaks so that passengers get in and out of their kayaks
on a sloped ramp to the water, assisted by crew. They slide easily into the water and, when finished, are hoisted back up onto the ramp and out of the
water.
The weather I encountered was generally calm, with a few windy days. The ship seemed amazingly stable and displayed little pitch or roll in the conditions
we encountered.
The public areas of the ship--a lounge/bar and the dining room--are spacious and comfortably accommodating for the capacity of the ship. Deck space is
adequate but not overly generous. The Safari Endeavor is an older ship and, quite frankly, is showing its age. To be fair, the ship was at the end
of its season when I sailed aboard it and was scheduled for a dry dock visit and refurb prior to going into the summer season in Alaska.
Accommodations
Cabins are rather small, especially the Commodore's Cabin which I had. Since I was traveling solo, its size did not present a problem for me, but if
traveling as a couple, it might have been a struggle moving around and getting bathroom time. There's plenty of hanging storage and under-the-bed storage
in these cabins. Bedding in the Commodore's Cabin is configured as split single beds, and I would note that they may be a bit short for a 6-foot-plus
person. The bathroom was small, dated, and, in my estimation, needed a thorough cleaning and refurb. One advantage--and potential drawback--of the
Commodore's Cabins is that they are on Deck 3, with access through a door opening to the outside deck. This is handy for getting around the ship and it's
nice to be able to step out of your cabin into the fresh air and have a sea view. However, with other passengers using this deck to get to and fro, there's
not much privacy, and I found that I kept my shades drawn most of the time.
If price is not an object, I definitely would upgrade to one of the higher-level cabins or possibly a suite, all of which have more space and more quality
finishes--though I still would classify them as comfortable but not luxurious.
The Crew/Guides
This is where Un-Cruise excels. The guides, who led various excursions on water, on the beach, and into a couple of the towns we visited, were young--or
young at heart--outgoing, and enthusiastic. They were especially good with the children aboard our "Family Cruise," planning special activities and
excursions for the kids and teaching them the basics of snorkeling, kayaking, and such.
Did I mention the guides were invariably safety conscious? Everyone wore personal flotation devices (PFDs) any time they boarded one of the smaller boats
to go anywhere, and two crewmembers assisted passengers on and off the smaller boats. Shore excursions, as much as possible, were designed for dry
landings. Various guides conducted short lectures in the evenings in the lounge to explain the next day's activities, give nature background, etc.
Dining and Drinks
Meals aboard the Safari Endeavor are pretty much at set times, with some variation for what may be happening on any given day. For early risers,
there's coffee, juice, and fresh-baked pastries set out in the lounge. Breakfast is at 7:30 a.m. with a buffet for cold items, plus two specials, and you
can always order off the menu. Lunch was at about 12:30 p.m. with offerings of salads (e.g. grilled chicken, tuna), sandwiches, and other light offerings.
Orders are taken earlier in the day for dinner entrees, which usually number three: one fish, one meat, one vegetarian. Dinner is served at 7:30 p.m. after
a gathering for drinks and snacks in the lounge. I should mention the Safari Endeavor hosts an open bar and that bar was tended most of the day.
The choices of liquor and beer were top quality, and the wine was good and varied, too. Add to that the bartenders' know-how and different passengers
bringing different backgrounds and tastes, and cocktail hour was usually a great time for experimentation.
The food was a bit inconsistent, ranging from disappointing to very good. In spite of being in fish-rich waters, I got the sense that much of the fish
served was previously frozen. Wine and beer presentation was always quite good, and the service was excellent. In fact, the servers were not only very
outgoing and in some cases humorous, but also very flexible. If you wanted to do a half-and-half of the fish and meat or the vegetarian, fine! If you
wanted an extra portion, fine! Matter of fact, I did a lot of half-and-halfs and always found the vegetarian selection to be great--amazing, considering
I'm the ultimate carnivore and fish-aholic.
Expeditions/Entertainment
Un-Cruise Adventures is all about experiences, mostly with nature but also with history and culture. The activities scheduled throughout our seven-day
cruise were varied and interesting. Most, as might be expected, involved water--snorkeling around coral reefs, swimming with whale sharks and sea lions,
etc.
On the whole, we were a little late in the season for many of the migrating whales to still be around. For instance, if the ship had received reports of
gray whales in Magdalena Bay over on the Pacific side of Baja, they would have bussed us over to experience them. We were, however, accompanied one day by
a pair of breaching humpback whales and even saw a rare double breach. And we almost always had dolphins playing in the bow wave of the ship or breaking
off the sides.
When we hit a town, which we only did twice--La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, and Loreto--Un-Cruise arranged for interesting walking and
shopping tours with local guides, and we still had some time to wander around by ourselves.
The Final Word
If you're into nature or are a water buff, an Un-Cruise Adventure tour in Baja, Alaska, or wherever they journey is a great experience. You'll be well fed,
attended to by an enthusiastic and caring crew, and enjoy the company of gregarious and energetic fellow rovers.