Two of Dubai's many luxury hotels impressed us, as did a mountain retreat about an hour from the city. If I had four or more days to linger in this part of the world, I'd split them between the country, at the Hatta Fort Hotel, and the city, at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel or Hilton Beach Club, whichever matched my style.

Jumeirah Beach Hotel

The Jumeirah Beach Hotel is one of Dubai's newest hotels and its most architecturally splendorous. Located in the exclusive Jumeirah residential district a few miles from the city center, the hotel presents a stunning profile: two curvaceous, glass-shrouded wings—designed to evoke images of breaking waves—that connect at their highest points to enclose a 26-story atrium.

Another dramatic Jumeirah structure is under construction, rising 36 stories on a man-made island just offshore. Taller than the Eiffel Tower, and shaped like a dhow sail, it will house exclusive suites when it opens in 1999.

Owned by influential and popular Crown Prince Sheik Mohammed, the Jumeirah Beach is the place to see and be seen. With 600 rooms and growing, it is no hideaway, but it has much to recommend.

Fall/Winter 1998