When my brother from Arizona visited me in New Hampshire recently, he suggested we drive up to Canada's French province of Québec for a couple of
days. I figured we'd have hours and hours to catch up with each other in the car. Not so! It took a mere three-and-a-half hours to get to the
Vermont/Canadian border on I-91, and then just 30 minutes, give or take, to reach the picturesque rural city of Magog--itself another pleasant surprise!
As it turns out, Dave chose this small city by blind luck, simply hoping to find a place to stay somewhat close to the border in the Eastern Townships
region of Québec. Magog turned out to be more than we had hoped, a sophisticated French-speaking town of about 26,000 people on beautiful Lake
Memphremagog. This odd name is derived from the Abenaki Indian word mamhlawbagak, meaning "large expanse of water." The lake definitely is the
focal point of Magog, with an attractive park and bike paths wrapping along its shoreline, a beach--and I use that term loosely--for sunbathing, and a
marina with charter and sightseeing boats at the ready.
We entered Magog via its bustling main street, lined with intriguing-looking shops and a bounty of restaurants and sidewalk cafés that beckoned us to
stop for a bite on this rare sun-soaked June day. In fact, the weather was so unusually warm and sunny for early June that it was all the locals could talk
about, and thankfully in English.
Actually, part of the fun of being so close to French Québec is the chance to drive across the border and instantly be transported to a seemingly
foreign land. Between speed limits in kilometers and road signs only in French, and walking down the street with the lilt of the French language drifting
around you, this trip takes on a decidedly European flavor without ever leaving North America.
Settling "Inn"
Our home-away-from-home was Au Gîte du Cerf Argenté (www.cerfargente.com)--translated
"Inn of the Silver Deer"--a pretty and moderately priced B&B about ten minutes south of Magog. The inn is surrounded by gardens and bordered by fields
and rolling hills. Five themed guest rooms are individually decorated and very comfortable: the Chinese, Mediterranean, Moroccan, Mexican, and Printemps
("Springtime"). Ours was the Mediterranean, a second-floor corner room with tall windows and ceilings, a wood-burning fireplace, a large bathroom with
jetted tub, a queen bed, and a pullout sofa-bed that Dave swore was quite comfortable.
After checking in, we decided to hit the town for a walk and some dinner. The quick drive back to Magog was filled with my "oohs" and "aahs" as we passed
gorgeous, sprawling homes on the shores of Lake Memphremagog, their perfectly manicured lawns rolling down to the water's edge. Horses grazed in neatly
fenced pastures, and even the most humble homes were well kept. We were impressed.
The French word "promenade" took on new meaning once we'd parked the car in town and set off on foot. It appeared the entire city of Magog had turned out
that Saturday evening to enjoy the fine weather and dine al fresco. The sidewalks were crowded with window shoppers and strolling couples, and every
restaurant that could squeeze in an outdoor patio was overflowing with patrons. Live music mingled with the laughter of diners. It seemed all of Magog was
in a good mood! We chose a large outdoor patio-only restaurant that was packed and whose name we never did discover, but which served delicious flatbread
pizza, pastas, and seafood at very reasonable prices.
A Day to Explore
After all the fresh air of the night before, we woke up more than ready to tuck into the "breakfast" part of our bed-and-breakfast experience. Eric, the
innkeeper at Cerf Argenté, was a gracious host and served a terrific déjeuner, starting with a pot of French-press coffee. Then came his
homemade muffins and fresh-baked bread, yogurt with fresh fruit, fluffy scrambled eggs, bacon, and a thick Belgian waffle served with real maple syrup. All
this was accompanied by a small marble cheese board with two varieties of locally produced fromage. And here's where it got interesting.
Eric explained in excellent English that the cheese came from a local abbey on the other side of the lake, where the monks make 12 varieties of handcrafted
cheeses at their dairy and maintain an apple orchard from which they produce apple cider--both sparkling and non--apple butter, applesauce, and other
goodies. All these, he explained, were for sale in the abbey's boutique, and this being Sunday morning, if we finished our breakfast without too much
delay, we might make it there in time for the 11 a.m. mass, which is celebrated each week with Gregorian chanting. Yet another serendipitous discovery!
At first impression, the Abbey de Saint-Benoît-du-Lac was like something out of a French fairytale. Its turrets, green copper roofs, and massive stone
walls rose up against the backdrop of Lake Memphremagog and made an imposing sight as we drove up. Signs along the driveway requested " Silence, s'il vous plait," and the sacred atmosphere was palpable as we made our way to the church. It already was filled to the brim, so we stood
outside the open doors and listened to the rhythmic chanting awhile before heading to the well-appointed abbey store.
Here we found shelves of jams and compotes, religious articles, and a large refrigerator case displaying the abbey's many cheeses: Bleu Fumé, a
lightly smoked blue cheese; Benedictus, a gruyere with a subtle texture and tangy taste; Mont Saint-Benoit, a prize-winning hard, sweet cheese with a
hazelnut flavor; and all the others. My shopping bag filled with apple butter, two bottles of sparkling cider, and a sampling of cheeses, I left idyllic
Abbey de St-Benoit-du-Lac thoroughly refreshed. Next time, I'll bring along a picnic lunch to enjoy at one of the tables set among the wooded grounds and
maybe a good book to read afterward as I bask in the serenity of the abbey's lovely setting.
Dave and I had one last stop to make before heading home, at the only place we actually had planned to visit ahead of time--Bleu Lavande, a lavender farm
in the rolling hills outside Stanstead, near the border. It was a beautiful, sunny day for taking the guided tour. In one hour, I learned more about
lavender plants and the many uses of lavender oil than I would have thought possible. My only regret is that the lavender flowers weren't in bloom--peak
season is mid-July to early-August--so I could only imagine what the fields would look like when brush-stroked with wide swaths of purple. Bien sûr--the perfect excuse to visit this charming and oh-so-convenient area again!
Your Québec Trip Planner
Getting to Canada's Eastern Townships couldn't be easier, whether you drive like we did or fly into Montréal or Québec City. If you fly, be sure
to spend a few days in either of these bustling metropolises, exploring each one's historic city-center and dining on superb French cuisine before renting
a car and heading to the countryside. Magog lies an hour-and-a-half east of Montréal off Route 10 and about two-and-a-half-hours southwest of
Québec City. If you fly into Québec City and then stay in Magog for a few days, be sure to take at least a day trip to Montréal.
The Eastern Townships offer plenty to do besides visiting the abbey and lavender farm. The Route des Vins is the only marked wine route in Québec, and
it takes you through mountains and valleys on the official circuit of the region's 21 vineyards--yes, 21! Some offer guided tours, and a few even let you
take part in the grape harvest. Or, meander along the Townships Trail--great by car or bicycle--to trace the Anglo-American heritage of this region. Oh,
and don't forget your golf clubs. It's a short season here, but you'll find a number of excellent, well-maintained courses to play.
For more information on local activities and festivals, visit the Eastern Townships' official and very good website, www.easterntownships.org.
Where to Stay
This area is awash with small inns and cozy little B&Bs. Here are two Hideaways-vetted suggestions to try; when you're ready to plan your
Québec trip, contact Hideaways Travel Services at 800-843-4433, or email ts@hideaways.com.
Manoir Hovey
, North Hatley: This romantic inn located directly on Lake Massawippi has 37 elegantly appointed rooms and suites, some with canopy beds, wood-burning
fireplaces, and private patios or balconies. The inn also has the award-winning Le Hatley restaurant serving contemporary Québec cuisine and offering
an extensive wine list. A heated outdoor swimming pool is tucked into a rock garden, and kayaks, canoes, and paddleboards are available for exploring the
lake. Rates start at CAD$170.
Ripplecove Lakefront Hotel & Spa
, Ayer's Cove: Also on the shores of Lake Massawippi, this classic waterfront hotel is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. It has 30
rooms and suites plus several freestanding chalets and cottages perfect for family getaways. Le Riverain serves dishes inspired by local produce, and
Arboressence Spa is named for the native pines that surround it. Year-round fun includes tennis, kayaking, hiking, and skating or ice fishing on the frozen
lake. Rates start at CAD$186.
July/August 2015