On my recent visit to Baja, Mexico, to report on a Sea of Cortez expedition with Un-Cruise Adventures^THC, I have to admit being overwhelmed by what I saw of Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo, and the area between known as "The Strip." This is the prime resort area of Baja California Sur, and when I last visited some 15 years before, it was already developing at a fast pace. Now the shoreline is pretty much cheek-to-jowl resort hotels, and the town centers behind the beaches are bustling, dusty beehives of activity.

I had planned on spending a few extra days exploring Baja after my cruise, but had no particular plan—unusual for me. Serendipitously, the cruise itinerary helped determine my plan. Between stops at deserted coves and island beaches, the m/s Safari Endeavor made overnight ports at La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, and the Spanish mission town of Loreto, further to the north. I found both places charming and much more "real" than the overly touristy Strip, and decided that, after the cruise, I would rent a car and head north to explore these areas.

I was most impressed with Loreto, where the Spanish established their first California mission some 300 years ago. The quiet town is perfectly charming, with a gorgeous malecon, or seaside promenade, a little harbor active with fishing and excursion boats, the restored mission Church of Our Lady of Loreto, shady cobblestone streets, and a laid-back ambiance. In short, it was just what you'd expect of a vintage colonial Mexican town. Beyond being rich in culture, Loreto offers many natural wonders, beaches, and diversions, both on and under the Sea of Cortez—including whale watching, diving, and fishing—as well as in the desert landscape surrounding it.

September/October 2015