Auckland was never at the top of our must-visit list. Wasn't it merely the jumping-off point to more exotic New Zealand locales? But here we were, standing on the summit of the Mt. Eden volcano, enjoying the dazzling view. Looking down, we stared into a vast ancient crater. Ahead, we saw the Auckland skyline with its famous Sky Tower and Harbour Bridge. Beyond, a procession of volcanic cones broke the horizon, and islands dotted the waters. We decided to stick around and explore the "City of Sails."

You can't beat Auckland's scenery and location, on a narrow isthmus on North Island and surrounded by two picturesque harbors. To the north and east, Waitemata Harbour, with its white-sand coastline and calm waters, dumps into the Hauraki Gulf, connecting the city's bustling waterfront to the Pacific Ocean. To the south and west, shallower Manukau Harbour, with its roily surf and black-sand beaches, opens to the Tasman Sea. More than 50 extinct volcanic cones poke out in the surrounding landscape, providing a dramatic backdrop. No wonder the Maoris who sailed their canoes from Polynesia settled here in New Zealand, where they had access to two coasts and could use the soaring volcanic formations as lookouts.