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Our journey last spring to Vedema Resort reminded my wife, Ann, and me of the painted Russian dolls called matrioshka that you open time and again, only to reveal another, smaller doll within. First we opened the Aegean to find the quasi-cosmic island of Santorini. Santorini opens onto the medieval village of Megalohori. And Megalohori gives up the 15th-century winery that is now Vedema Resort, within which awaits still more and more intrigues and pleasant revelations.