You can find anything and everything in New Orleans, but most people come to sample the local cuisine, both Cajun and Creole. "Tennessee," a local taxi driver, explained the difference: "A Creole do take fo' chicken and feed one guy, while a Cajun, he take one chicken and feed fo'." Here are our ratings on the places we sampled:

Acme Oyster House: Our favorite for appetizers; one of the liveliest eateries in town, a good show with friendly, humorous service. Delicious oysters on the half shell at bargain prices. Cheap.

K-Paul's Kitchen: The best meal we had on our trip. Recently expanded and renovated, the open kitchen on the second floor is atmospheric, but overall, the decor is nothing special. Service is average; the maitre d', haughty. Expensive.

Brennan's Redfish Grill: A new addition to the Brennan restaurant group. The decor is casual, interesting, eclectic; the service was okay; the food disappointing. Moderate.

Ralph & Cacoos: Indifferent service; forgettable food. Moderate.

The Café du Monde: Once a great place to sip coffee and savor a beignet, now just another overcrowded tourist hangout.

Lucky Cheng's: A theatrically fantastic and surrealistic trip into another world of service—if not food. Only for the open- minded: servers/performers are all drag queens! The main attraction is the show—impromptu, staged, and often interactive. The Asian-Creole fare and its presentation are pretty good. Moderate.

Spring/Summer 1998