It had been longer than I cared to think about—at least seven years—since we last visited Mexico's Yucatan, and in those seven years, the tentacles of tourism have spread well beyond Cancun's over-developed Zona Hotelera.

The best new finds

Our two favorite finds are certainly off the beaten path: one on the hippie hangout of Isla Mujeres, not far from Cancun, the other deep in the interior of the Yucatan.

Puerto Isla Mujeres

Puerto Isla Mujeres is a two-year-old resort set on a mangrove-protected lagoon just outside the main town of this funky, laid-back island, which is nine miles distant from bustling Cancun but a million miles away in ambiance. A comfortable private launch picks you up on the mainland and whisks you to this tranquil little retreat. Here you'll find a modern, somewhat spartan reception center, one of the most modern and fully-equipped marinas in the western Caribbean, and a cluster of red-tile roofed, Mediterranean-style townhouses. They sit amid lush gardens surrounding an enormous circular pool—perhaps 70 feet in diameter—with a handsome swim-up bar/grill and an adjacent terrace under a massive banyan-like tree. From the terrace, you can admire the yachts tied up at the marina.

Spring/Summer 1998